After seven months on the road, I'd learned that I need a lot of time in nature; as much as I enjoy city life, it creates a plaque-like accumulation of tension that only the silence of water, air and lush earth can diffuse. While I was researching the Baltics I came across a little town [...]
The resistance I’ve felt writing about Riga, Latvia, is similar to that of Geneva: I didn’t want to be there. But unlike Geneva, Riga didn't give me an uncomfortable vibe. Perhaps the timing was off and I wasn’t ready for city life after my quiet time on a farm. Then I chalked it up to [...]
I'm in the little-known town of Rakvere, Estonia, about an hour east of Tallinn. With four hours until my bus to Kärde, I've already walked around the castle, eaten a dill-laced lunch on a sunny patio, and played FreeCell on my phone in the bus station to kill time. So in case you're wondering, no, [...]
Four days was definitely not enough time to spend in this charming Baltic city. Built in the 14th century, the medieval old town is extraordinarily well preserved and ranks as one of the most aesthetically delightful places I’ve been so far. Sadly, everyone else thinks so too; a plague of cruise-ship vacationers descends on the [...]
